Collette Wilkes
Property Manager
208-558-7116
Island Park, Idaho History
Island Park once a volcano - Approximately 500,000 years ago the Island Park area was a fiery, hot volcano. Today the residents of Island Park can boast that their 33 mile long main street crosses that volcano which has collapsed leaving a structure called a caldera. Usually a caldera is roughly a circular steep sided volcano basin with a width that is 3 or 4 times greater than its depth. The Island Park caldera is typical except that since it collapsed it has been filled nearly to the crater rim by later flow of volcanic rock and lava.
The Island Park caldera is 18 miles wide and 23 miles long, making it one of the largest of its type in the world. Calderas are formed either by an explosion of the original volcano leaving a gigantic crater or by collapse of the bowl-like structure due to the removal of supporting molten lava from beneath the volcanic-like structure. The collapse of the volcano does not necessarily mean an end of the volcanic activity. It is easily assumed that subsequent eruption filled the crater of the Island Park caldera to near overflow. It is also apparent that other lava flows entered the Island Park caldera from the Yellowstone Park area in recent geologic times.
The south rim of the caldera begins to rise south of Pinehaven. Along Highway 191 you can see the ash flows, volcanic beds, and pumice rock which make up the crater rim. The Snake River meanders across the flat center of the caldera taking its different turns and directions as influenced by the lava beds and flows. In order to leave the caldera the river cut through the basalt flows, leaving the Upper and Lower Mesa Falls as evidence of its departure. The first floor of the caldera begins just north of the Ashton hill and continues throughout Island Park until it reaches the north crest, which is located following the north bank of the Snake River as it passes Mack's Inn. The north rim isn't as steep as the south crest due to the presence of the Henry's Lake flats (meadows) which was formed by the water erosion action of a shallow lake during the Plestocene Ice age.
How Island Park got its name - Throughout the early days the stagecoaches and travelers going through this country used the frequent large clearings or openings in the heavy stands of timber as rest stops or as placed to stop and "park" for different purposes. These clearings became known as PARKS and each had its own name or distinction. Near the present site of the Island Park Boy Scout Camp (on what was recently called the RR-Island Park Siding) is the clearing early known as Island Park - derived from the condition that one clearing was almost completely an island bordered by the Buffalo River, Split Creek, Little Warm River, Tom Creek, and Chick Creek. The name "Island Park" was retained by the railroad company when that immediate area was used as a siding for loading railroad ties and cattle. The Tie Company, which was headquartered at the Island Park siding, was designated to operate a US post office with the title of "Island Park". Later the Tie Company moved its operation to the Trude Siding and the post office moved with them still carrying the "Island Park" title. When the Tie Company proceeded to leave the general area of Island Park, the postal authorities put the "Island Park Post Office" under the supervision of Mr and Mrs Charles Pond at Pond's Lodge.
As time passed, the increasing correspondence from the post office, and due to the lack of any other more accepted means of identification, the name became more and more popular and accepted as a name for the whole general area. Thus at the present it is used almost unanimously to define an area which includes the country from Pinehaven north to the Montana border, embracing areas to the east and west along the valley which harbors the beautiful winding North Fork of the Snake River and its many tributaries, lakes, and valleys.
Indian Tribes in Island Park - The first humans to inhabit the Island Park area and the headwater region of the Henry's Fork of the Snake River were various tribes of North American Indians. The Shoshonean Indians were the most dominate in the area. The Shoshonean branches included the Eastern Shoshone (Snake), the Bannocks, the Lemhis, and the Tukuarikas (Sheepeaters). Occasionally the area was visited by the Blackfeet, the Crow, the Flathead, and the Nez Perce tribes.
Generally the great Shoshonean family occupied the country around the southern, eastern, and western borders of Yellowstone Park, including also that of the Park itself. Evidence indicates that the Eastern Shoshone (Snakes) tribe spent most of their time near the Henry's Fork stream and other nearby large bodies of water. Indian artifacts have been found along the banks of the Snake River (Henry's Fork) and around the shores of Henry's Lake. The Shoshone Snakes were known to have spent much more time in or around the Island Park area than any other Indian Tribe. Bands of this tribe would often spend their summers in Island Park hunting and fishing. The Indians found the Island Park area was deep snow country and too severe for winter habitation.
Every spring the Shoshone Snakes would make the upper Snake River valley, including Shotgun Valley in Island Park, their habitat to roam while camped on the Camas prairie. During this time their women and children would dig for the camas root. After the digging for camas root became scant in July their tribal encampment would be transported east through the Shotgun Valley thence northeast along the Snake River until entering onto the flats of Henry's Lake.
The Blackfeet lived in the Montana country drained by the headwaters of the Missouri. They were a tribe of perpetual fighters and were hostile to everyone. Like the Crows they were good horsemen and great rovers. In fight they preferred to use strategy rather than expose themselves to open action.
The great buffalo herds that once frequented the upper Snake River Valley and Island Park were wiped out before 1840. Consequently, the Bannock tribe was known at times to leave the Snake River plains area and travel in September towards Montana buffalo country where the herds yet existed and there they would spend their winter near the buffalo herds. Their cousins, the Shoshone Snakes, were usually on good terms with the Bannocks and they would sometimes accompany them into the Montana buffalo country.
The Crow Indians often would venture into the upper Snake River area hunting, fishing, and scouting. The Crow tribe spent most of their time in the area east of the Teton Mountain Range near Green River, Wyoming.
The Flathead tribe would occasionally leave their area near the Three Forks country in Montana and travel upstream along the Madison River and spend time in or going through the Island Park region. In the summer of 1840, the entire Flathead tribe traveled to Pierre's Hole (Teton Basin) in the Teton Mountains to meet the Roman Catholic missionary, Father DeSmet. The Flathead Indians had a reputation of being peace-loving, God-fearing Indians and were anxious to hear of this white man's God. The Flathead tribe, 1600 strong and Father DeSmet in their company, took the general route back to Montana following the North Fork of the Snake River through Island Park. They were known to have camped overnight at Henry's Lake. A rock has been found in the Henry's Lake region with the following inscription (in Latin) - "July 23, 1840 DeSmet".
The Nez Perce Indians most notorious identification with Island Park was as participants in a "fight for life" which took them from their home region in the Wallowa Valley of Washington through northern Idaho and down through Island Park. In August, 1877 the epoch flight of the Nez Perce Indians, under the able leadership of Chief Joseph, were pursued by the US Army under the command of General Howard. General Howard had ordered Lt Bacon to intercept the Nez Perce in the Island Park country at Targhee Pass. General Howard followed the Nez Perce tribe into the Island Park area. The US Army had set up camp at Camas Meadows for the night, 18 miles east was the camp of the Nez Perce Indians in the Shotgun Valley. After a fight in the first camp area, the US Army set up camp on the bank of the North Fork of the Snake River (possibly between McCrea's Bridge and Big Springs) and the Nez Perce camped by Henry's Lake. General Howard chased the Nez Perce Indians across the Henry's Lake Flats towards the Targhee Pass. What a surprise for General Howard to not find Lt Bacon at Targhee Pass to stop the Nez Perce from reaching the Yellowstone Park. There was a fight at Howard Springs in Targhee Pass between the Bannock Indian guides, General Howard's white scouts, and the Nez Perce. This allowed the main tribe of the Nez Perce to advance into Yellowstone Park safely. After the defeat, General Howard made camp at the entrance of Targhee Pass for four das to await supplies and mules coming from Virginia City, Montana. The fight continued between the US Army and the Nez Perce in the Yellowstone country where Chief Joseph finally surrendered to General Howard.
The Tukuarika (Sheepeater) tribe was the humblest branch of the Shoshonean family. They alone were known to have more or less permanently occupied the Yellowstone Park country and nearby areas. The Sheepeaters wintered most often in the Salmon River Mountains. Springtime would find them moving from the Salmon area east through Island Park and into the Yellowstone country.
Explorers and Trappers - During the summer of 1810 an expedition of trappers, working for the Missouri Fur Company and under the leadership of Andrew Henry, became the first known white men to set foot on Island Park soil. They came by way of the Three Forks country of Montana, making their way up the Madison River crossing over the low pass later named Raynold's Pass, and entering Island Park onto the shores of Henry's Lake (named after Andrew Henry). They followed the Snake River (later named the Henry's Fork) downstream through all of Island Park and came out onto the Snake River plains. They then constructed Fort Henry southwest of the present town of St Anthony, Idaho where they spent the winter of 1810-11. Men in the expedition by the names of Robinson, Hoback, Risnor, Miller, and Martin Case were known to have been at Fort Henry and to have traveled with him through Island Park.
History tells nothing about the Island Park area until in 1818 when Donald McKenzie led a party of trappers into the Snake River country where they trapped into the headwaters (Island Park region) of that river. McKenzie was reported to have continued his operation in that region for many more years during which time his trappers took approximately 75,000 beaver.
Trappers and early timers who became famous as guides for the Island Park and Yellowstone regions were Richard Leigh, Jim Bridger, Dick Rock, and George Rea.
One of the most prominent of these late-century trappers was Richard "Beaver Dick" Leigh. He lived in the Snake River valley year round and did his trapping, hunting, and guiding throughout all the region adjacent to the upper Snake River valley, becoming well known for his knowledge and ability. "Beaver Dick" was introduced to the area by the Hudson Bay Company. Later he spent time in Utah and met Brigham Young who supposedly nicknamed him. Leigh was in frequent contact with the Shoshone and Bannock Indians and knew their languages. The government used him as a guide for the Hayden Survey and later on as an interpreter during the Bannock War. Leigh's first wife was from the Eastern Shoshone tribe and his second wife was from the Bannock Indian tribe.
George Rea came into the Island Park region to hunt wild game meat for the Montana gold fields during the late 1860's and early 1870's. He later appeared in Island Park as a citizen volunteer to General Howard during the Nez Perce campaign. He had already earned a reputation as a hunter and guide in the Yellowstone region. After following the Nez Perce flight through the Shotgun Valley area he returned to establish a homestead in the Shotgun Valley and became a guide, rancher, and fishery operator.
Richard E "Rocky Mountain Dick" Rock's love of the Rocky Mountains and yearning for adventure took him into the Indian campaigns of Wyoming, Montana, and Idaho. His knowledge of the Rocky Mountains earned him a well-respected nickname and gained him the opportunity to serve as a scout/guide with the forces of General Miles, Custer, and others. His association with the Indian tribes brought him into acquaintance with Sitting Bull, American Horse, and others of renown. He associated with William "Buffalo Bill" Cody and Calamity Jane. His activities as a scout/guide introduced him to the beautiful Island Park region early in the 1860's and it brought him to his favorite spot in all the Rocky Mountains - Henry's Lake - by 1871-72. The summers would find him establishing a residence at Henry's Lake and the rest of the year he would continue helping the US Army as a scout/guide.
First Settlers of Island Park - The first settler in Island Park was Gilman Sawtell in 1868 at Henry's Lake. Sawtell was known as a trapper and Indian fighter who lived in the Henry's Lake region and for whom Mt. Sawtelle was named. His name was misspelled by General Howard and so consequently the mountain is also. He spent much time trapping and fishing, taking his pelts and salted fish into Montana for sale. In 1872 he finished building his cabin structure upon the north bank of Staley Springs.
The second settler in Island Park was Richard "Dick" Rock at Henry's Lake. He was an Indian fighter, a hunter, a scout and guide for the Island Park area. Dick had a great knowledge and experience with the wild animals of the Island Park region. Rock filled orders to zoos by capturing infant wild animals and then raising them to be accustomed to man before shipping them to the zoos. This process of domesticating the wild animals made the Rock ranch a very interesting attraction to tourists and stagecoach personnel on their way to Yellowstone. Records indicate that he had domesticated three young bears which he named "Mona, Fitzsimmons, and Corbett," a cow moose he named "Nellie Bly", a buffalo he named "Lindsay", and also two Rocky Mountain goats, many elk, swan, and geese. His moose "Nellie Bly", which was the only one he successfully raised to maturity, was trained to harness for cart racing. Rock's pet buffalo, "Lindsay", which he had trained from a calf and treated like a true pet, was tame enough that occasionally Rock would get upon the back of the animal and ride it like a horse. One day while feeding "Lindsay", Rock turned his back on her and she charged him and gored him 29 times. This accident was the cause of his death in 1902.
George Rea was an Indian fighter, gold miner, rancher/farmer, Indian scout and guide, trout rancher, and a hunting guide and outfitter in the Montana, Idaho, and Yellowstone country. In 1877 when reports of the Nez Perce tribe coming into Montana were received, George Rea responded to a request from General Howard for guides who knew the Idaho-Montana country. Rea accompanied the US Army in its encounter with the Nez Perce in Island Park. Rea was there during the Indian raid at Camas Meadows and the consequent flight through Shotgun Valley, up the Snake River and out onto the Henry's Lake flats area. The spring of 1878 found Rea back in Shotgun Valley becoming its first white resident. He named his homestead/ranch - "Glen Rea", using a Scottish custom of titling a valley abode or haven - a glen, and indicating ownership by using the person's last name in the title. George Rea's most famous customer was President Theodore Roosevelt, whom he guided on several occasions through Island Park and the Yellowstone country. The George Rea had one of the very first private fish farms/hatcheries in the State of Idaho on his homestead in the Shotgun Valley.
For over 140 years, people on their way to Yellowstone Park, have journeyed through southeastern Idaho going up-stream on the beautiful North Fork of the Snake River into a most fantastic country - the area known as Island Park. The rugged beauty, plentiful game, superb trout fishing, and gorgeous mountains of Island Park not only served advance notice to what would be found in Yellowstone country but also became Idaho's gateway to Yellowstone National Park.
Island Park is a small village in south-eastern Idaho. It is about 35 miles long in its North-South direction and only about 1,000 feet wide at the widest point. Island Park has the "longest main street in the America". The City of Island Park was incorporated May 16, 1947, to meet a state law requiring businesses that serve or sell alcoholic beverages to be within incorporated towns. The City's government at the time drew up the City's boundaries to include all the businesses from the Last Chance area north to the Montana border that desired licenses to serve and sell alcoholic beverages. All other areas of what is now known as the Island Park Recreational area remains in Fremont County. Because of this, most of the City's "main street" is now Highway 20 and the old Highway 191 base, a major highway lined with fine lodges, motels, restaurants, lounges, C-stores, gas stations, tackle shops, recreational vehicle, snowmobile sales and rental businesses. Although the city itself is small, the area of the Island Park Caldera is large and the width is about 20 miles.
The majority of the information above came from the "History of Island Park" book by Dean H. Green. This book is sold in various stores throughout Island Park and is a wonderful source of information on Island Park. This is a must have book!
Rainbow Realty
P.O. Box 74
3320 Hwy 20, Last Chance
Island Park, ID 83429
208-558-7116 (local) or 800-853-7420 (toll free)